June 7: Rouen’s Medieval Marvels—Cathedrals, Markets, and Joan of Arc

June 09, 2025

Our day in Rouen was a deep dive into Normandy’s rich history, culture, and local flavors. From Gothic spires to bustling markets and the legacy of Joan of Arc, every step revealed a new story.

We began with a guided walking tour through Rouen’s beautifully preserved old town. The city’s medieval heart is a tapestry of cobblestone streets, half-timbered houses, and vibrant squares. Our guide led us to the magnificent Rouen Cathedral, a masterpiece of Gothic architecture that inspired Monet and dominates the city skyline with its soaring spire84. Along the way, we admired the ornate Gros Horloge, Rouen’s famous astronomical clock, and passed by the Palais de Justice and charming Place du Vieux-Marché.

No visit to Rouen would be complete without reflecting on the legacy of Joan of Arc, one of France’s most revered heroines. Our walk took us through the very streets where Joan was tried and ultimately condemned for heresy in 1431. We paused at the Place du Vieux Marché, the historic market square where she was burned at the stake. Today, the site is marked by the striking Joan of Arc Memorial Cross, which stands beside the modern Church of Saint Joan of Arc—its sweeping architecture and beautiful stained glass windows a tribute to her enduring spirit. Standing at this powerful memorial, we took a moment to remember Joan’s courage and the profound impact her story still has on the city and the nation.

Site where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake

After the tour, we stayed in town to experience Rouen’s culinary side. The local market was alive with color and the aromas of Normandy—fresh produce, artisanal cheeses, and baked goods everywhere you looked5. We found a spot for lunch among the market stalls, sampling regional specialties and soaking up the lively atmosphere. We had some local oysters and Rob even found fried Smelts (but small and chewy).

Post-lunch, we returned to the Cathedral of Notre-Dame for a closer look. Beyond its breathtaking façade and stained glass, the cathedral holds a unique historical treasure: the tomb of Richard the Lionheart’s heart. Richard I, famed for his role in the Crusades, chose Rouen as the resting place for his heart, which is entombed in a sarcophagus here, marked with the inscription “Here is the heart of Richard, King of England”6. It’s a poignant reminder of the city’s deep medieval roots.

Relic of Saint Olav, King and Patron of Norway. Offered for the Millennium of his Baptism in Rouen Cathedral in October 2016 (so was from 1016)

Here lies the heart of Richard, King of the English, who was called "Lionheart." He died in the year 1199.

Our afternoon concluded at the Historial Jeanne d’Arc, a modern museum dedicated to France’s legendary heroine7. Located in the Archbishop’s Palace, the museum uses immersive multimedia to tell the story of Joan’s trial, execution, and posthumous rehabilitation—all events that unfolded here in Rouen. Walking through the crypts and historic halls, we gained a new appreciation for Joan’s courage and the city’s role in her legacy. Also the the views in the tower gave a view of the Cathedral and the city.

We stopped at a cafe/bakery that our tour guide had recommend for Petite Choux.

Chouquettes (French: [ʃukɛt]) or petits choux are small pieces of French patisserie consisting of small spheres of choux pastry, sugared and baked. The term was known in the 16th century, and was originally applied to small savoury spheres. Since the late 17th century choquettes have been sweet. (wikipedia)

We stayed out in town until just before all aboard. And then it was time to go.

And then time for Happy Hour and everyone to discuss what the did and saw as we gazed at the sites along the shore.

One of the beers that the monks at Abbey Saint Wandrilee brewed, this one an Irish Stout.

Almost like this house was looking and smiling at us

As we were preparing for the light Dinner in the lounge versus the sit down dinner, Rob had to go back to the room for a phone call. So Toni and Victor, one of the crew, brought dinner to Rob.

From our cabin

A little rainy as we entered the lock

Rouen’s blend of history, art, and everyday life made for an unforgettable day. Tomorrow, we see Josephine's (Napoleon) house before we have a calm afternoon on the Seine for our return to Paris for the final chapter of our journey!